Veena Parrikar is a dear friend of Mahanandi and me and an occasional guest author on Mahanandi. Her first article was on Iceland. This is her second article, an insightful and engaging cookbook review. I thank Veena for this wonderful contribution!
~ Indira
There are perhaps as many misconceptions about Indian cuisine as there are restaurants named “Bombay Garden”.
Indian food is tandoori chicken, aloo-matar, saag-paneer, and naan.
It is hot and spicy.
Vegetables are cooked to death.
It starts with frying onions and tomatoes to pulp and ends with a garnish of coriander leaves
One can hardly blame the Western and even some of the Eastern world for harboring these notions. Most Indian restaurants outside India serve the same tired old fare under various guises. The exceptions to these are the upscale “fusion-Indian” restaurants; after all, Indian food cannot be admitted into the Michelin club without a French or “contemporary” accent (pun intended). Over the past few years, South Indian restaurants have slowly gained ground and it is not uncommon to see a Chinese eating masala dosa with her bare hands or a middle-aged white guy slurping rasam at the neighborhood Madras Cafe or Udupi Palace in the USA. The silly notions about Indian food, however, are far from being a thing of the past. For example, the threat of homogenization, albeit of a different kind, hangs heavy like the odor of yesterday’s takeout. The complexity and variation among and within the cuisines of the four states of Southern India (Karnataka, Kerala, Tamilnadu, and Andhra Pradesh) could never be guessed if one were to go by the menus of these South Indian restaurants. Most of them do not stray far from the familiar idli, vada, masala dosa, uttappam, sambar and rasam, with an indifferent nod to some rice varieties, such as curd rice, lemon rice and tamarind rice. Desserts are still “balls in sugar syrup” (gulab jamun), “ricotta cheese in evaporated milk” (rasmalai), or the occasional rava kesari, leaving in the cold a rich repertoire of jaggery-based sweets that is one of the hallmarks of the cuisines of Southern (and some other states of) India.
To be sure, even within India, availability of the authentic, traditional fare is limited to small niche restaurants, special festivals at star hotels, or if you are lucky, at the homes of neighbors and friends from other communities. Your best bet then, is to recreate many of these dishes in your kitchen, with the help of such cookbooks as Meenakshi Ammal’s Cook and See, Chandra Padmanabhan’s Dakshin, Saranya Hegde’s Mangalorean Cuisine, Saraswat Mahila Samaj’s Rasachandrika, and Jigyasa-Pratibha’s Cooking at Home with Pedatha.
A new addition to this stellar lineup of traditional Indian cookbooks is Ammini Ramachandran’s Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts: Recipes and Remembrances of a Vegetarian Legacy.
Grains, Greens and Grated Coconuts ~ Cookbook by Ammini Ramachandran
Ammini’s book fills a lacuna in the Indian cookbook landscape. Books on the cuisine of Kerala abound; however, most of them have a predominance of seafood dishes. Small wonder then that Kerala food, like most other coastal cuisines, is perceived to be primarily non-vegetarian. One food writer and journalist in India even declared that most Malayali vegetarian dishes are terrible! One knows, of course, not to take such statements without the proverbial pinch of salt, and a large one at that. Having encountered the delectable and varied vegetarian fare of the coastal cuisines of Goa and Karnataka, I had always suspected a similar treasure existed in Kerala. Eating and learning it, was another matter altogether, what with the lack of Kerala-food restaurants, close friends from the state, or opportunities to set forth on a voyage of discovery to its shores. With Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts, some of the vegetarian food of Kerala is now just a coconut (or two) away.
The present state of Kerala was formed by the merger of Kochi (Cochin), Tiruvithamcore (Travancore), and Malabar. Each of these regions, originally Hindu, was subject to varying degrees of Muslim and Christian influences. Accordingly, Kerala cuisine represents the confluence of Hindu, Muslim, and Christian traditions. Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts presents the traditional vegetarian cuisine of central Kerala including some from the Kochi royalty. It is one of the first cookbooks to focus on a Hindu culinary tradition of Kerala.
Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts is one of the finest Indian cookbooks to have been written in recent times. Here’s why:
1. Traditional food, when presented for a worldwide (read Western) audience, undergoes a simplification, motivated largely by the authors’ and publishers’ goal to widen the book’s market reach. Recipes are modified to exclude exotic or not-easily-available ingredients; difficult processes might be eliminated or substituted with commercial alternatives; and dishes that do not conform to the health fad of the day might be passed over. Except for a few dishes, food from Kerala is obscure even to many Indians, leave alone the non-Indian readers. Ammini has barely made any changes to her family recipes, yet her presentation makes them seem extremely do-able. She does not hesitate to include preparations with such exotic vegetables as breadfruit, jackfruit, and suran. Ammini has pulled off a seemingly impossible feat in Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts: she has preserved the originality of her traditional family recipes, and made them accessible to those outside the tradition, without overwhelming the reader with tedious detail. Novice cooks might miss having pictures of the finished dishes; the clarity of instructions, however, make up for this to a very large extent.
2. There is none of the anything-goes attitude to ingredients adopted by many modern Indian cookbooks published in the West. No false assurances are provided about difficult ingredients such as coconut milk. She tells us that coconut milk powder can be used instead, but clearly informs that the taste will not be authentic. We are told right at the onset: “My mother always insisted, “Never skimp on the quality or quantity of ingredients,” and I believe it is the first lesson in good cooking.” This is reflected in the meticulous detail provided in the chapter on ingredients.
3. Ammini’s family recipes create dishes that would go a long way in dispelling some of the popular myths about Indian cuisine. Spices are used in skillful moderation (garam masala powder never makes an apperance in this book), the vegetables and grains hold their shape and retain their flavour, and you will encounter delicate and subtly-flavoured curries that will never be found in a restaurant.
4. There is a detailed chapter on the history and development of ancient spice trade in Kerala, and to those who have not previously enquired into such matters, this chapter offers many surprises. The book also provides a very engaging account of the kitchens, culinary customs, and festivals and celebrations of Ammini’s maiden family. A world that is now almost extinct rises vividly from the pages and for a brief while, you forget the harried and hurried pace of your existence (and the pre-made frozen food in your kitchen). This is a serious yet enjoyable work, not just another cloying food “memoir” that is in fashion these days.
The book has been written for a Western audience, but readers in India will find much of profit. Such ancient traditional recipes do not come by very often. I am no alarmist, but it seems as though our traditional cuisines will soon exist only within the homes of determined souls or in five-star hotels. Even wedding feasts in India – the last stronghold of traditional food – seem to have embraced a global integration philosophy: Mushroom Pasta and Gobi Manchurian now jostle for buffet space with tava vegetables, Spanish rice, and Shahi Paneer.
Our culinary traditions, not unlike our ancient classical music, have been poorly documented for far too long, what with the practitioners jealously guarding their treasures from outsiders for various reasons. With the passing of generations, more and more of this body of knowledge will be lost. We hope there will be many more Amminis, who will not only document their family or community recipes painstakingly and truthfully, but also share it generously with others.
Srimati Ammini Ramachandran ~ Cookbook Author
(Recipe from Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts)
I was intrigued by this recipe as it did not include sambar powder, and at first glance, seemed similar to some of my daal-vegetable preparations. The finished dish was neither like the familiar sambar nor my usual daal-with-vegetables. With powdered spices (except asafetida and turmeric) as well as ginger-garlic absent, the flavour of toor dal is allowed to hold centerstage, complemented by the freshness of the potatoes, herbs, and lemon juice. I stayed faithful to the recipe as I am wont to do when attempting traditional recipes for the first time. There is a slight error of omission in the recipe, but a missing pinch of turmeric is not a show-stopper.
Recipe:
1 cup toor dal
1 medium russet potato or 3 taro, peeled and cubed
2 medium tomatoes cubed
Salt to taste
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
¾ cup finely chopped cilantro leaves
¼ cup finely chopped fresh fenugreek leaves (preferred, if available)
or ½ teaspoon ground fenugreek
6 fresh green chilies (serrano or Thai), thinly sliced (less for a milder taste)
4 tablespoons lemon juice
For seasoning and garnish:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 dried red cayenne, serrano, or Thai chili, halved
¼ teaspoon asafetida powder
20 to 25 fresh curry leaves
Clockwise:Toor Dal, Fresh Fenugreek, Tomatoes, Curry Leaves, Green Chillies, Potatoes, Lemons, Cilantro
Wash and clean the toor dal in several changes of water, until the water runs clear. If you are using oily toor dal, the oil must be washed off before starting to cook. Place the toor dal in a saucepan with two and a half cups of water and a half-teaspoon of turmeric powder. Bring it to a boil over medium heat, then turn down the heat, and cook for twenty-five to thirty minutes. (As an alternative, you may use a pressure cooker to cook the dal, following the manufacturer’s directions. It will take about six to eight minutes to cook in a pressure cooker.) As the dal cooks, it should be fairly thick but still liquid; stir in another half-cup of water if it is too thick. Mash the cooked toor dal thoroughly with a spoon, and set it aside.
Combine the potato (or taro), tomatoes, salt, turmeric, and two cups of water in a saucepan over medium heat, and bring it to a boil. Stir in the cilantro, fenugreek, and green chilies. Reduce the heat, and cook until the potatoes are fork tender. Stir in the cooked toor dal, and simmer for four to five minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Remove it from the heat, and set it aside.
Heat two tablespoons of oil in a small skillet, and add the mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds start sputtering, add the halved red chili, asafetida, and curry leaves. Remove it from the stove, and pour the seasoning over the cooked curry. Cover and set aside for ten minutes, to
allow the flavors to blend. Serve hot with rice and a second curry.
Makes 4 to 6 servings if served with another curry, as is traditional.
Pacha Sambar: Sambar with Fresh Green Spices
~Guest Post by Veena Parrikar
Notes:
Ammini Ramachandran’s website : Peppertrail.com.
For a detailed list of contents and exceprts from the book, see www.peppertrail.com.
Grains, Greens and Grated Coconut is available at Amazon.com, iUniverse.com and Barnes&Nobles
Recommend this cookbook to your local libraries
Author and Book Cover Photo Credits: Ammini Ramachandran, Recipe Photo Credits: Rajan Parrikar
Veena Parrikar’s previous article at Mahanandi: Iceland
I’m thrilled to be the first one to comment. Congrats on yet another neat review, Indira! You are doing a wonderful job introducing us to fine books. Thanks….
Comment by Latha — March 19, 2007 @ 2:25 am
And a big thanks to Veena … comments always are typed in haste with a 2 yr old around:)
Comment by Latha — March 19, 2007 @ 2:28 am
Thank you Indira and Veena,for bringing new cookbooks to us.Will see if I can buy this book when I visit India this time.I am always a great fan of cookbooks,but donot have even one indian food cookbook till now.
Comment by Vini K — March 19, 2007 @ 4:05 am
This is an interesting article….even I am guilty of this…I always had a set impression of a certain region’s cuisine, meaning, I always associated Punjab with Chhole-Bhatures, Maharashtrians with Ambat-Varan,modaks and so on…you get the drift. I have come a Loooong way since then…thanks to blogging mainly. Indian regional cuisines have so much to offer…and it goes beyond the notions we have.
Lovely cookbook, and article..
Is Veena Parrikar the wife/relative of Rajan Parrikar…the expert on Indian Classical Music?
Comment by Trupti — March 19, 2007 @ 5:31 am
Indira,
Thanks for the nice article. I always wondered about Kerala Vegetarain cuisine. I am surely going to buy these Cook books when I go to India next July.
Sarada
Comment by Sarada — March 19, 2007 @ 6:53 am
happy ugadi to u n ur family indira
Comment by sia — March 19, 2007 @ 7:29 am
I have already ordered this book. I love Keralan food, and you are right, it is pretty much non-existent in the US.
I’m thrilled that you say she doesn’t dumb down recipe ingredients. That’s one of my pet peeves about Indian cookbooks published in the US, and why I buy up armfulls of cookbooks when I have the lucky chance to go to India.
I’m not Indian, but I love the cuisine so much and get so excited to find resouces like this – it makes me a bit giddy…whooooo-hoooo!
Comment by Diane — March 19, 2007 @ 7:32 am
Veena,
Thank you very much for such a wonderful review! I have always been looking for a cookbook that focused on the beautiful vegetarian tradition of Kerala, and the book you reviewed seems perfect. I also get tired of so-called “ethnic” cookbooks, which do not capture even a fraction of the traditional cooking of the country they seem to represent. It is always a pleasure to discover a book that is in fact authentic!
Comment by Victoria — March 19, 2007 @ 9:11 am
lol @ ‘Bombay Garden’. Ammini, for those who don’t know her, is also a stellar person. She has given freely of her knowledge and expertise at food forums.
Comment by bee — March 19, 2007 @ 9:23 am
Happy Ugadhi to you and your loved ones. I have been visiting your blog for over a year now and have always looked forward to your new articles and recipes. Great job.
Comment by Arathi — March 19, 2007 @ 9:50 am
Nice Article Indira and thanks for a good review of the book Veena.
Comment by Prema — March 19, 2007 @ 9:56 am
Hello everyone,
Happy Ugadi, Gudi-Padva, Navreh…..
Indira and Veena Ji,
Great post. Regional Indian cuisine has not gotten its due in retuarants yet…..including, you may be surprised, Punjabi food :). Its good to see cook-books and blogs dispelling the myths about our food and our culture. I am yet to see a restaurant that serves dishes like karele, ghia-torai, ghia-chane di daal, shalgam sabzi, you know the kind of food usually Punjabis eat at home…..you get the picture. And you are so right on money about Garam Masala. Its not something to be dumped in the food by fistfuls :). Also, the local cooking classes back home don’t do much good-sample one of my school friend’s experience-they taught her all the wrong things-what with the “tomato paste” in everything :). None of the “Bombay Garden” type restaurants would serve anything authentically Maharashtrian. Any place where i can find good Avial-none to my knowledge. Or good Oriya, Bangla Khana, none again!
Great book review, too,
Comment by musical — March 19, 2007 @ 11:41 am
Great review of Ammini’s Grains, Greens and Grated Coconuts. There’s no doubt that this book excels on every front. I haven’t been able to put it down.
Comment by Manisha — March 19, 2007 @ 11:56 am
Hi Indira
Happy Ugadi.. My amma does this sambar. She calls it molaga killi potta sambar ( sambar with cut chillies ) where she uses green chillies instead of sambar powder. she does use tamarind instead of the lime..
Comment by Revathi — March 19, 2007 @ 11:59 am
great review!!!!
it was such a wonderful experience going thru this article!!!
happy ugadi!!
Comment by padmaja — March 19, 2007 @ 1:26 pm
Happy Ugadhi Indira …
Comment by swathi — March 19, 2007 @ 4:23 pm
[…] Original post by Indira […]
Pingback by Cooking for every day life » Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts Cookbook Review and Recipe … — March 19, 2007 @ 4:38 pm
Vini and Sarada: the book is not available in bookstores in India. See notes at the end of the post for links to current sources for the book.
Trupti: yes, Rajan is my husband.
Revathi: Ammini had mentioned that the cuisine in her book does have some Tamil Brahman influence.
Musical: I have some Punjabi friends and have often eaten at their homes; I have had all of the dishes that you mention. Their everyday food is so simple and so different from the dishes that are being associated with “Punjabi cuisine” worldwide.
Manisha: Nice to see your comment here! I enjoyed your step-by-step pictorals of Ammini’s okra kichadi recipe and am looking forward to more.
To all who wrote in: I am glad you enjoyed reading the review. You will enjoy the book even more. I hope I have done justice to the effort and dedication that Ammini has poured into this book.
In the interests of brevity, I did not write this in my article, but I am grateful to all of the Indian food blogs that are documenting and sharing the traditional recipes of their families, communities, and regions. They have opened up a whole new window to Indian food, the (mis)perceptions of which have historically been shaped by restaurants, influential authors, publishing houses, and now celebrity TV chefs. As we know only too well, a genuine love of the cuisine may or may not be the driving force for these players.
Regards,
Veena
Comment by Veena Parrikar — March 19, 2007 @ 10:28 pm
I don’t get to visit Chicago very often, but I have eaten at a few places on Devon street in that city. It was indeed the standard “Indian Restaurant” menu items, but I wonder if one could find some traditional authentic Indian regional dishes in Chicago too?
Comment by prac — March 19, 2007 @ 11:45 pm
Hi Indira,
Just wanted to say, I’ve linked u to my latest post. Well the recipe’s are yours!! It is my Ugadi post and I am m aking your mango dal and mamadikaya pulihara. I will upload my pix but have credited the recipes to u.
Pls chk this link: http://grubs-up.blogspot.com/2007/03/happy-ugadi.html
If u are unhappy, tell me and I will delete it!
Comment by DesiGirl — March 20, 2007 @ 12:29 am
What a lovely review! I agree, until many more regional cookbooks arrive on the horizon, I’m grateful for the existence of the many food blogs where bloggers generously share their family recipes at no cost.
Comment by Nupur — March 20, 2007 @ 3:53 am
Nice to read a well written and thorough review by the knowledgeable Veena.Please may we have more of the same Indira.
Comment by Jyotsna — March 20, 2007 @ 3:58 am
Hi Indira,
Ugadi wishes from Menu Today .
Comment by Menu Today — March 20, 2007 @ 5:30 am
Thank you very much Indira, Veena and Ammini ! this is exactly what I’m looking for. This is the main aim of my blog: to share and communicate an authentic cuisine from Kerala, at least the one i could discover through my mother in law and the one I can read through such good cooking books and blogs !
I have a question, what is exactly garam masala powder, they are so many different compositions that I’m confused. However, my mother in law do use a home made mix she calls garam masala, made from cinnamon, jeera, cardamom and cloves, is it really an influence of the north indian mix garam masala, or is it a traditional mix in Kerala cuisine ?
Comment by Charline — March 20, 2007 @ 9:33 am
Nupur & Jyotsna: Thanks for the compliments. A considered blog post is a lot of hard work. It makes me appreciate my favourite food blogs even more.
Charline, there are many varieties of garam masala powder, ranging from simple ones with four or five ingredients to complex ones with 15-20 ingredients. You have to try a few recipes until you find the one you like. Garam masala is more frequently used in North Indian cuisines. Maharashtrian cuisine has several of its own pre-made spice mixes that are distinct from garam masala powder, but involve several of the ingredients that go into garam masala powder. As far as I know, traditional Kerala cuisine does not use garam masala powder.
Veena
Comment by Veena Parrikar — March 20, 2007 @ 10:00 am
Indira,
Happy Ugadi! I’m dying to see what/how you make Ugadi pacchadi.
rgrds,
padmaja
Comment by Padmaja — March 20, 2007 @ 10:44 am
Great review!!
Ammini is a friend of mine and I have tasted the food she has made – it’s excellent!! I had not tasted authentic Kerala food before but tasting the food Ammini makes I am hooked!
Comment by Sowmya — March 20, 2007 @ 1:26 pm
Oh! To be as lucky as Sowmya…
Comment by Manisha — March 20, 2007 @ 3:50 pm
Wish you happy Ugadi Indira!! Each and every time I visit your blog, I feel so privileged to post my comment.So many new thing to learn in the world of cooking. Thanks!!
Comment by Sharmi — March 20, 2007 @ 4:21 pm
Great article. Would look forward to buy this book.
Wish you both a very happy belated UGadi!
Comment by Roopa — March 21, 2007 @ 2:26 am
Indira,
Your blog is such an education, a thrill, and tasty. I am constantly coming back for more. Fantastic job!
Comment by Cynthia — March 21, 2007 @ 4:31 am
Happy Ugadi to you Indira.
Comment by Laxmi — March 21, 2007 @ 8:40 am
I’m a big fan of Ammini R’s recipes. I used to lurk at a forum she used to hang out and I should say, her recipes are always wonderful and ‘very’ traditional.
I’m so glad that Pedhatha and Ammini R are bringing out their treasured traditional recipes through these books.
Thanks Indira and Veena for showcasing another gem.
Comment by Kay — March 22, 2007 @ 3:03 pm
gorgeous picture!
Comment by Kanchana — March 23, 2007 @ 5:16 am
Hi Indira,
Thats a great article & a great book too!! I checked out the site & was amazed by the simple yet lucid narration about kerala. I made the pacha sambar today & needless to say it was simple yet unique….enjoyet it thoroughly!! Thanks for sharing.
Comment by Suma — March 23, 2007 @ 11:07 pm
I just visited Ammini Ramachandran in Plano Texas. Not a big deal since Ammini Chechy ( sister)is my cousin. I have kept in touch with her while she embarked on this cook book project. I have just finished reading ” Grains, Grains, and grated coconut” and am amazed at how beautifully it has come out. It is thoroughly researched, authentic, and so genuine. Thank you Ammini chechy for sharing this intimate knowledge about us Nairs with the world.
Usha
Comment by Usha varma — March 24, 2007 @ 6:18 am
Happy Ugadi Indira and Vijay and have a great Year ahead.
Comment by sandeepa — March 24, 2007 @ 9:36 pm
Hi Indira, Now this is a cookbook I have been waiting for. Ammini is an awesome person and I am sure the book is wonderful. Thank you for posting that review here which brings to light all the major points in favour of this book. That was good analysis on what this book lends to the reader – ‘ not modified to exclude the exotic or not so easily available ingredients and at the same time not overwhelming’. I have always been intrigued by kerala recipes. Documenting the recipes and sharing it with larger community is always so rewarding and I am sure that Ammini’s book is a super success. Thank you Indira. Going to try the sambar very soon.
Comment by Pritya — March 25, 2007 @ 1:52 am
Hi Indira,
Thank you for sharing Veena’s wonderful writing with us once again. I agree with her pithy assessment of “Bombay Garden” cuisine — I’ve been at pains to feed my friends in the US home-cooked food from western, northern, and southern Indian recipes, with your help!
With your and Veena’s permission, I’d like to excerpt and link this post to my own blog. It’s only three months old, and not a food blog. (Well, not yet, anyway!) In fact, I think the above would be the first food-related entry.
Uma
Indira replies:
Hi Uma, thanks for asking permission.
It would be our pleasure to read about this post at your blog. Please go ahead. Thanks.
Comment by Uma — March 25, 2007 @ 6:43 am
u r website has been wonderfully encouraging for a single young graduate student to start cooking. while most of my fares start with frying onions i come from a family that doesnt use onions/gralic. and i have noticed that receipes that avoid onions/garlic always use asafoetida. i dont think it tastes the same but surely has equally overpowering smell. wonder why?
Comment by swati — March 27, 2007 @ 5:44 pm
This looks like exactly the kind of book I have been wanting–thanks very much Veena and Indira.
Comment by the chocolate lady — April 11, 2007 @ 7:56 pm
A huge thank you for the review. I have just received my copy of this book and am eager to start cooking from it, but I have one question that I hope someone can answer for me. When Ammini refers to ‘red beans’, does she mean kidney beans, adzuki beans or some other type of bean?
Thanks in advance!
Comment by Nigel — April 27, 2007 @ 3:18 am
Nigel –
The red beans in the book are red cowpeas, which are also sold as “chowli” in grocery stores in the United States (not sure about stores elsewhere outside India). See the link below for a picture:
http://chinabeans.en.alibaba.com/product/50129836/50596644/Beans/Small_Red_Beans.html
Veena
Comment by Veena — April 27, 2007 @ 10:05 am
Hi Indira,
I liked the write-up on this book….it inspired me to try this recipe & believe me i really loved the taste of this simple yet unique sambar. Thanks for sharing. Please do post any more recipe that you try from this book.
Comment by Suma — May 1, 2007 @ 2:35 am
Dear Veena, Indira,
I owe a big thanks to you for introducing this fine book through Mahanandi. I got my copy from amazon y’day and just finished reading the first few pages on cooking and dining, Indian history… I’m sure I’ll enjoy making Smt. Ammini’s recipes and relishing them with my family.
Indira, Sorry I forgot to order through Mahanandi… i’ll remember next time:)
Comment by Latha — June 25, 2008 @ 1:31 pm